Removing the tank is easy as it's empty. Just make sure all the hoses, electrical feeds and rigid fuel pipes are disconnected first and only after fuel pressure has been neutralised by removing the fuel pump relay, starting the engine so it runs on residual fuel in the fuel rail and filter, and then letting it cut out. Another way is to put old rags around the bulkhead mounted fuel filter bleed screw and open gently to release pressure.
While under the car (supported on axle stands of course, in gear and with front wheels chocked) I started poking around the rusty bits. never a good thing for peace of mind but essential if only to fully realise the size of the restoration project.
here's some photos.
|Slight surface rust on fuel tank seams|
|Nearside rear sill|
|Offside rear sill|
|Nearside sill closing panel or lack of...|
|No tank - floorpan in great shape|
|Fuel pump exterior parts|
|The tank. 52 litre capacity|
|The lowered tank. Note the straps|
|Fuel sender connector|
|Mushroom head tank strap bolts|
|Two tank retaining straps|
|Slightly bent tank bolts|
|Filler tube (rubber)|
|Tank strap retaining bolt in position|
Due to the layout of the rear suspension, I will have to remove it to enable clearance to get any cutting, grinding and welding gear around the inner sill to wheel arch area. While the suspension is off, it will be stripped, checked, sandblasted and powder coated with all rubber parts renewed using urethane bushings etc. New dampers and springs will also be fitted. At the moment, the problem that needs solving is how to enable the car to be moved in and out of the garage when the rear wheels and suspension are removed. I reckon some sort of cradle with large castors is in order.